To Print - or NOT to Print?

Some people insist that your BOS must be handwritten, or it somehow isn't a valid.

Ridiculous. Just . . . ridiculous. This is on par with saying that no cookbook is worthy unless it has been hand-written and handed down through the generations.

If someone has been lucky enough to have been handed down a generations-old BOS or grimoire, that is something worthy of high esteem; but most don't have that opportunity.

I say print from the computer as you like. You will hand write things in, on and around those printed objects as you use the BOS. It's inevitable. Those pages will begin to vibe with your essence soon enough.

I suffer from Rheumatoid Arthritis, and while I have a BOS that is primarily hand-written, it has taken YEARS - and it is interspersed with lots of snippets that I've printed from the internet. I dare anyone to tell me that my BOS is somehow less because I've decorated it with printed things - and if they try, they had better come to the table with proof.

I say this over and over and OVER - but it's true: The power is in the witch, not her tools.

So - with that preamble out of the way, I give you this beauty to begin preparing for Yule.

This comes from Lapulia Book of Shadows, where you can download the full size page for printing.

As far as I can discern, they allow and encourage people to use their pre-made pages for their personal use. Please - don't put these in anything you are intending to sell. They have been very generous and have created a very beautiful set of pages for our use.

**** I take ZERO credit for the artwork or the recipe. This page is presented as I found it at La Pulia Studio.****

Yule Incense - Prepping

I know what you're thinking: "It isn't even Samhain!"

You're right, it isn't. But it isn't too early to start on your Yule incense. In fact, anytime within three months before any Sabbat isn't too early to start its incense. Honest.


So, while harvesting out in the yard yesterday, I stopped to harvest some Spruce Needles. I use these interchangeably for Pine Needles in my recipes. I feel perfectly at ease doing this, as this Spruce was planted by me within weeks of moving into this house back in 2006. This tree and I are good friends, in a manner of speaking.

When I removed this little guy from the nursery pot, I could balance him, root ball and all in one hand. He was less than a foot tall. The tag said he was a Norway Spruce - but I'm not so sure about that. This little guy has none of the characteristics of the Norway Spruces I've seen through the years. Who knows?

He is now almost 8 feet tall. He has grown remarkably fast and healthy.

 

I traditionally replace my pine/spruce needles yearly, as they tend to age very fast. He was badly damaged when I bought him (hence, he is already misshapen) so I'm not a fan of pruning him at this time - I just take a few snips here and there from underneath, which is all I need. 

Now that I have a new stash of needles to work with, I've already started prepping for my Yule incense. 

I have this recipe listed as a Complex Incense for Yule under the Yule tab. I term this complex because of the number of ingredients, the availability or scarcity/cost of ingredients and the addition of multiple oils. 

Yule Fire Incense

2 parts Frankincense, crushed                2 parts pine needles               
1 part Cedar shavings                             1 part Juniper Berries
1 part Orris Root                                    1/2 part Myrrh
Evergreen Oil                                         Neroli Cedar Oil                    
A few crushed Ivy leaves

• Crush the resins first, separately. (Frankincense, Myrrh)
• Next - crush/chop any woody/herby elements, including your ivy. ***Crushing pine needles or cedar shavings with a pestle and mortar is about as successful as nailing Jell-O to the wall; It isn't worth your time.*** I actually have an old set of kitchen knives and an old coffee grinder that I use for lighter things that don't grind well by hand. I usually treat the pine needles like a woody herb and chop the needles with a knife on an old cutting board. My cedar shavings are freshly planed off a cedar board, and I can actually chop those pretty fine if they have been planed thinly. Ivy is easy to crush when dried.
• I leave the Juniper Berries whole - you can crush them or chop them if you wish. 
• Mix the resins, needles, cedar and juniper berries together. Toss in the Orris Root and Ivy leaves - mix all together well.
• Add oils - one drop at a time, alternating from Evergreen to Neroli Cedar. Mix and lightly toss your incense mixture after each addition of oil, letting all ingredients absorb the oil. One drop might not sound like much, but it's a great deal of moisture to the dry ingredients. 
• Add only as much oil as you want for consistency. 

---- If you can't find the oil specified, substitute with any good quality pine or wood type oil according to the scent you like, or go with a holiday appropriate scent such as Bayberry. This incense can also be used with just a few drops of wine or honey to help bind it. However, you may want to increase your resins to offset the lack of scent from the oils if you use wine or honey, or you may prefer it less heavily scented. Once again - it's all about personal preference. I've just given you the recipe as I use it.

If you try this recipe, or try it with substitutions or variations, please drop me a line and let me know how it went!

Making Sense out of Incense - Recipes, that is!

Making your own incense can be a game-changer for anyone practicing witchcraft.

The Beginning of Incense - this is from 2002

The obvious game changer is more control over scent - and cost. The downside is interpreting recipes, and understanding the method of blending different textured items into a loose incense.

Let me be clear - I am not referring to make stick or cone incense. That is an entirely different method, and, truthfully, not one I am versed enough int o discuss.

Making loose incense, however, has been a passion of mine since my earliest days of practicing witchcraft.


How much does 1 part mean?

This is the question I am usually asked first from anyone just entering the world of making their own incense.

Think of a part as a simple measurement. 1 part can be one tsp. or one cup. Just be consistent when working a recipe. If you use 1 part to mean 1 tsp of one ingredient, then 1/2 part of the next ingredient is 1/2 tsp.

Ok. I understand that - but what measurement should I use?
If it's your first time working the recipe -
If some or all of the ingredients are expensive or hard to get -
If the recipe is for a once a year event -

To all of those above, I would suggest starting with 1 tsp. per part.

It may be you are not fond of the recipe. You might not have funds that allow a larger batch even if you do like the end result, and/or there's no sense in making a larger batch if you only need it once a year.

For all those reasons - do not invest your money in ingredients until you know you love the recipe, have the money for the ingredients, and it is something you will use often.

Help! I ordered Frankincense, and I got these HUGE chunks of rock! What do I do?
Resins such as Frankincense, Myrrh, Copal, Benzoin, Dragon's Blood and the like will come in rock form.
You decide how you want to use it from there.
Do you prefer it just in tiny pebble-like chunks?
Do you want to powder it?

Many times your recipe will state *crush* or *powder* your resins. This is where your pestle and mortar come to play. If you don't have a pestle and mortar, put your resins in a thick, freezer bag and use the flat side a hammer to crush your resins. It's messy, and you'll probably waste some of your resin this way, but if it's all you have to work with - do it.

As a general rule of thumb, the more your resin is reduced the more even the distribution throughout your incense, which in turns mean a more balanced scent while burning. Some incense benefits from tiny flakes of resin, rather than powdered resin. The small flakes will give the burning incense different depths of aromas as it burns different things on the charcoal.

Once again - this will be up to you. Through experimentation you will find what works to heighten your senses as you burn the incense.

How do I make the incense stick together - it's all separating into layers by weight in the jar!
Much of this action will depend on how finely ground your items are. Heavier things, such as chunks of resin will drift to the bottom of the jar, while lighter things such as flower petals will drift to the top - that's basic gravity.

One way to keep an even distribution is the addition of binding agents such as Orris Root Powder, pine sawdust and oils, honey or wine. Any one of these items, or all of these items used together will have an impact on the texture, density, and distribution of your incense.

There is no hard and fast rule. If you don't like the texture or density of your incense - add something, or reduce something the next time around.

I tend to make very moist incense, as it takes very little on the charcoal to scent the whole house. It also tends to smoke longer than a dry incense that is consumed quickly. But, that is my preference. I once knew a witch who just used sawdust soaked with essential oil. It worked for her, though it wasn't my preference.

What's the way to actually blend the incense?
First - crush your resins. Separately.
From there, your herbs, flowers or woods can be powdered or left whole. (Personal choice or recipe direction)
Next, mix your resins with the herbs/flower/wood components. Mix well.
Add any filler necessary. (The bulk agents - Orris Root powder, sawdust, etc)
Lastly - add your oils, honey, wine - anything wet. Add one drop at a time
Store in glass or metal container with a lid.
Label your incense - make notes

I use Mason canning jars or jelly jars for my experimentation. I tape the incense recipe to the jar. When I check the incense after a few weeks I make any additions or thoughts to the paper on the jar, or tape a new paper on the backside.

Never put anything with scent oils or essential oils in a plastic container. Something chemical happens with some oils and plastic together. Just. Don't. Do. It. You will regret the awful smell. 

How much do you use for a Sabbat/Esbat?
I don't use much, really. I'll say at the most, 2-3 Tbsp through an entire day. I don't want a smoky house, but on the Sabbat day I will start incense early in the morning. I'll relight a charcoal throughout the day a few times and sprinkle a bit on every few hours, since incense is a trigger for me in many ways. It helps to set my mood, and focus my mind.

After a while, particular incense blends for me have become essentially what smelling those particular Christmas Cookies that Grandma bakes is for other people: You only smell it once a year, and when you smell it - you feel the season. It becomes an association. For this reason, I burn 'seasonal' incense frequently.

Which ones do you make in bulk? 
My Altar, Full Moon, and Witches Circle Incenses. An Altar and another Esbat type of incense is what you will use the most often. 

The Bottom Line

• Read your recipe carefully
• Check availability and price of ingredients
• Decide frequency of use
• Designate a measurement for *part*
• Be consistent

Most importantly - please, please, please - Write down every last thing you do. If you deviate one drop from the recipe - write it down.

I can't stress the importance of this. In the early years, I did not do this. I would tell myself I'd remember. Wrong.

I can still remember one of the most beautiful incenses I've ever made. It was for Imbolc. I remember most of what was in it - but despite over 17 years of trying, I have yet to recreate it exactly. It's always missing something. It was a beautiful, bright,  clear-scented incense that captured the depth of snow covered pines, crystal air, yet was imbued with a wonderful, sunny feeling. Every Imbolc I regret not writing that down.

It goes without saying that everything is written down now, even the first trial runs of an incense at 2 and 4 weeks into its maturity. I compare how the scent changes over time. If I add one more drop of jasmine oil at weeks in - I write it down.

Don't lose something wonderful - write it down!